Our first seed order came in today. It included a packet of 1000 Candy Onion seeds. What was I thinking? We seed 12 packs of onions per flat, with 60 seeds per pack--that's 720 seeds per flat--so 1000 seeds is only 1 flat and 4paks. We sell a lot of onions. So I had to scramble to add another 5000 seeds to another company's seed order, since it would cost $8.50 to ship the 5000 seeds.
Seeds are so expensive but we need healthy seeds to grow good plants.
While on the topic of onions, these are the varieties of onions and onion-related plants we grow: Candy Onions: These are day neutral onions, large and sweet and store fairly well (ours keep well into March).
Walla Walla Onions: These are also large, sweet, and we find we have to use these first--keep OK till end of Dec.
Ailsa Craig, Sister strain to Kelsay Sweet Giant, can become giant onions under ideal growing conditions, adequate moisture and a long enough season. Our growing season is not long enough for giant ones, but they become a good size, and are sweet enough to eat large slices raw. We find that these keep marginally longer than Walla Walla.
Red Onions For me these are the best keepers, usually right till green onions are available from next year's crop.
White Sweet Spanish onions: Large and sweet, they are the second-longest keepers, well into spring. These are an open-pollinated heritage variety.
Leeks: We love leek and potato soup, aka "Cock-a-leekie Soup" when made with chicken broth and meat. Ours don't get as fat as store bought ones due to short season, but worth growing.
Onions need fertile soil, and a steady supply of moisture,since they have shallow root systems. They do not like any competition from weeds at all. My onion beds are the first to be weeded, and are rigorously maintained even when other plants get neglected.
I spoke about another onion family member, garlic, in the previous post.
I plant all my onions from young plants started from seed in the greenhouse, but one can also grow them from sets--small onion bulbs grown the year before, and properly cured. The ideal size of sets is 1/2-3/4" in diameter. Smaller ones won't make large onions and larger ones may go to seed very quickly.
The bulbs of onions should not be covered with soil. But leeks can be planted deeper to blanch the lower part of the stalk.
For my own garden I am trying Borlotti Beans. They have interesting pods and if dried have nice white and red speckled bean seeds.
And just for fun, we are planting Canary Bird Vines. This vining plant is related to nasturtiums, but can easily grow to 7' tall on a trellis.
I finished all the outdoor work that I had set as my goal: The garden is all cleaned, rototilled, and I planted a wee patch of 40 garlic cloves--my first try at growing garlic. See the black arrow in the photo--that's my 4' square garlic patch.
I have read too much unnerving information about garlic imported from China, which is commonly sold in grocery stores, so I went to the local Garlic Festival to buy seed garlic from the best garlic growers in the area. I bought lovely purple-skinned garlic heads, then planted the biggest cloves.
I am told garlic is best planted in fall (like tulip bulbs), covering with straw insulates the ground, so roots can form before the garlic freezes. Early in spring I will have to remove the straw cover so the ground can warm up.
We had our first snowfall a few days ago.
So even if I hadn't finished what I wanted to do, the snow would have declared an end to the outside work.
Have also been busy with greenhouse orders. All the pre-started plants had to be ordered early, so those orders were done before the end of October. The big seed order is in, and two smaller ones, Stokes and T&T will be ordered as soon as the new catalogues arrive.
Since I am making the garden smaller next year, I have to plan how to include some of everything we enjoy. I can't reduce the 5 long rows of onions, or the 4 long rows of different types of potatoes. Not likely to reduce the 26 tomato plants that I usually grow, nor the 2 doz slicing cucumber plants.
I hope our berry patch produces well next year. We have about 40 Haskap bushes, 16 saskatoon bushes, 30' of purple raspberries, 30' of black raspberries, 70' of red raspberries, lots of gooseberries (green and red), currants (red, white, black), josta-berries (cross between black currant and gooseberry) and 5 goji berries. I managed to get them all cleaned and a lot of them mulched with chopped leaves to a deep depth, which should keep down weed germination next year. Our 9 cherry bushes have also been cleaned and mulched with wood chips.
And I hate watering the plants that I am keeping over for stock plants in the basement windows, and checking them for bugs.
This article was originally published in the newspaper in February. We are, in fact now very busy in the greenhouses.
Have your seed catalogues come in, yet?For me, the seed catalogues are harbingers of
spring joy, not of spring work.At our
place, all the seed orders have arrived, except for some backorders, and we are
(mentally) gearing up to go into the greenhouses next week.
Many years ago, BG (Before Greenhouse), I
used to start most of my plants in the house.There are many reasons why folks might want to start plants in the
house:from saving money (???) to enjoying
the challenge. Here are some suggestions that might increase your likelihood of
will I need?
a.Containers (clean) that have drainage holes:egg cartons, foil cake pans, recycled
greenhouse cells, margarine containers…
b.Larger containers to transplant
c.Some kind of waterproof trays to hold the
d.Good quality, sterile growing
medium (one brand name is Jiffy Mix).
e.An artificial light source
whose height can be adjusted.Window
light is not usually sufficient to keep the seedlings short and stocky.
What conditions do
seeds need to germinate? Assuming you have viable seeds, the following are required:
The right temperature
(this varies from plant to plant.Some require as low as 60˚F, some as high as 80-85˚F.)
Light/dark: (some seeds will not germinate if covered, others will not
germinate well if uncovered).
never let the surface dry out.The
best way to keep the seedbed moist without washing out the seeds is
frequent misting with a spray bottle.
Time: of germination varies greatly.Vegetable seeds generally germinate fairly quickly, as do most
annual flowers.Perennials can take
weeks and even months to germinate.
Where can I find
out the above information?Some seed
catalogues/seed packets provide adequate
information.There are many good
gardening books, for example, the Lois Hole series.
What conditions do
the seedlings need to survive and thrive?
Direct light:this means that the light source (sun
or artificial light) is shining directly on the seedlings for at least 8
hours (up to14 hours is better) per day.Fluorescents are better than incandescents since they give off
less heat.The lights should be
about 2-4 inches from the tops of the plants (hence the need to be
height-adjustable).If the light is
not right, the seedlings will stretch and develop long, skinny, weak
soil moist, but not soggy.The
surface may be dry, as long as the root zone is moist.
Space:The first leaves do
not look like true leaves.When
the seedlings have developed some sets of true leaves, the plants should
be transplanted into larger containers.Use 10-52-10 fertilizer after transplanting, according to package
directions.This promotes root
are at risk of disease or stunted growth.Depending on the plants, you might transplant more than once as
bigger containers are needed.
fertilizer:When the transplants seem well-established, switch to 20-20-20
fertilizer, diluted.Overfertilizing results in salt—buildup in the soil.
Hardening-off.Spring will finally
arrive. The time will come when you will start thinking about putting the
plants outside.They will need to
be acclimatized to the stress of outdoor conditions:wind, sun and temperature.Bring them outside into a warm,
sheltered spot for about an hour the first time.Avoid direct sunlight at first.Gradually increase the exposure for
longer periods of time, and gradually ease into the sunlight.
When should I
start the seeds?
greenhouse, we have a pretty tight planting schedule.These dates are critical for us, since we
need things to be at their peak, and blooming for sale.For many plants, we have two or three seeding
dates, so we can offer plants at their prime over the weeks of selling season.
My advice to the home gardener is, “ Don’t
start tooearly!”.There is a risk of long skinny plants that
may never be strong.Some seed packets
will tell you when to start (e.g.start
indoors 4-6 weeks before last frost).
And, if you do like I did one year—put your plants
outside, forget to bring them in, and freeze them all during the last frost of
the spring—then we’ll see you at the greenhouse.
Just a sneak peek at some colors new to our greenhouses:
African Sunset Petunias:
African Sunset Thunbergia (Black-eyed Susan)
Petunia Crazytunia Mandevilla
Petunia Crazytunia Terra Cotta:
Dracaena Marginata--striped version and also Magenta version. The neat thing about this plant is that it can be brought into the house and trained in interesting ways. The great thing for me is that they prefer to be on the dry side.
As I was going
through my gardening books, I saw the Plant
Hardiness Maps, and I recall that the Zone system for plants can be quite
confusing for folks.
Hardiness Zones are numbered from 1 to 9, where 1 is the coldest climate, and 9
being the warmest.It is not only the winter temperature which
is considered in the assignment of Zone numbers.Every factor that influences how well plants
will grow is taken into consideration:winter
temperatures, length of frost-free growing season, quantity of precipitation,
degree of humidity, and winds.This
results in general areas.A plant that
is hardy for Zone 1 can grow in higher zones.But a plant that is hardy to Zone 6 will likely not survive in Zone 4 or
lower.Some plants need the winter
dormancy for survival.
According to the
maps, my area is Zone 2 (a or b),
although we are safe to consider ourselves Zone
3.The specific area where you live,
e.g. high up on a wind-swept unprotected
hill, or conversely, a south-facing, well-sheltered flowerbed close to a heated
building, may provide you with a unique
microclimate, which would influence the plant choices for that spot.
My sister in Sherwood Park had a
lovely, sheltered, south-facing yard—she grew all kinds of Zone 5 and Zone 6
plants successfully.She was also
fanatical about watering and mulching. One of our customers from Andrew (which
is a zone 2 frost pocket) has also had good luck pushing the Zones in his
assume that, if a greenhouse or nursery in this Zone sells certain plants, they
are necessarily hardy for this area.Always check the tags for the zone—they are generally fairly
accurate.Mail order seeds and plant
catalogues generally do not give Zones. Some plants that are not winter-hardy
in our Zone, are lovely plants if treated as annuals and enjoyed for only one
season.The best example I can think of
here is that of Tea Roses.With proper
protection it is possible to winter tea roses, but probably only with 50%
chance of success.So, buy them if you
love them, plant them in a large pot and enjoy them on your deck or patio, and
just like your hanging baskets, let them go in the fall. We sell only hardy
roses recommended for Zone 2 or 3.
which are “funny” with regards to Zone are Forsythias, Azaleas and
Rhododendrons, to name just three.These
are listed as Zone 4 or 5.The reality
is, the plants will likely
survive our winters with sufficient snow cover, but the flower buds are not hardy to Zone 3, so if they bloom at
all, the blossoms will be only on those branches that were covered by snow.Some shrubs like the Grace Smokebush will not die, but will die back to the ground every
year, so they will never grow as large as we might see them in BC.
If you would like
the challenge of pushing the Zone limits, don’t start with very expensive
plants.Buy smaller sized or less
expensive varieties, and if you find Zone 4’s or 5’s work for you, then try
more expensive plants.Whether in-Zone
or out-of-Zone, always water plants well in fall, and make sure there is enough
snow cover or mulch.What often kills
our perennials isn’t the coldest days (or weeks) of winter, it is the spells of
warm weather which we often get in February and March before Old Man Winter
returns with a vengeance—these warm spells may fool the plants into breaking
dormancy too soon, only to succumb to the cold later on.
Use the Zones as
a guide only:gardening is about
experimenting and caring and bragging about your successes.In our Greenhouse and Nursery, we stay on the
conservative side, selling only Zone 2/3 and a few Zone 4 plants that have
shown promising results in this area.
We live on a farm in Alberta, Canada. We operate a mom & pop greenhouse and tree nursery. My passion is knitting, I like to sew and quilt. My faith and family are most important to me.
My ravelry name: sproutsnknits
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